Sicilian pizza is Palermo's embrace — the sfincione (Palermo's thick-based pizza with tomato, onion, anchovies, and caciocavallo) is an expression of the city's warmth and generosity. Food as an act of welcome, sustenance as love made edible.
The sfincione of Palermo — not to be confused with Neapolitan pizza — is one of the oldest pizza traditions in Italy, predating the Neapolitan version. The thick spongy base, the intense sauce of tomatoes and onions cooked down, the salty anchovies, the strong caciocavallo cheese, the breadcrumb crust — it is a substantial, generous, working-class food, sold from street carts and bakeries for centuries. The Ballarò and Capo markets of Palermo rang with the cries of 'sfinciunara!' from vendors carrying their trays. The proverb 'è l'abbrazzo di Palermo' captures what this food is: not refinement but genuine warmth, the embrace of a city that feeds you directly and honestly, the love that does not need to be subtle. It is the Palermitano version of 'pane cunzatu è cunvitu di re.'
A modern proverb-praise of Palermo's sfincione pizza, one of the oldest pizza traditions in Italy. The sfincione was sold from street carts in the city's historic markets for centuries. 'Abbrazzo' = abbraccio (embrace). Expresses Palermitano food pride and civic identity.
Welcoming a visitor from outside Sicily
Prima di tutto ti porto allo sfinciunaro. A pizza siciliana è l'abbrazzo di Palermo — capirai subito questa città.
First of all I am taking you to the sfincione seller. Sicilian pizza is Palermo's embrace — you will understand this city immediately.
An emigrant missing Palermo
Potrei fare qualsiasi cosa adesso, ma quello che voglio è uno sfincione caldo al mercato. A pizza siciliana è l'abbrazzo di Palermo — non esiste altrove.
I could do anything right now, but what I want is a warm sfincione at the market. Sicilian pizza is Palermo's embrace — it does not exist anywhere else.
Explaining the difference between Sicilian and Neapolitan pizza
Non è la stessa cosa. A pizza siciliana è l'abbrazzo di Palermo — più spessa, più generosa, più onesta della napoletana.
It is not the same thing. Sicilian pizza is Palermo's embrace — thicker, more generous, more honest than the Neapolitan.
Bringing sfincione to a gathering
Ho portato lo sfincione della panetteria di mia zia. Mangiate. A pizza siciliana è l'abbrazzo di Palermo.
I brought the sfincione from my aunt's bakery. Eat. Sicilian pizza is Palermo's embrace.